Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2014-2015Prestige issue 254, September 2014
Bright and modern
This Week of Parisian Haute Couture took place
during a vacationer summer with
rare sun, cloudy skies and raindrops…
The weather went ahead of fashionistas and already dressed for the winter season. A new season that creators wanted full of light, with flamboyant colors, historical and modern at once.
It is in the historic hall of the municipality of the VItth district of Paris that the Lebanese designer has chosen to present his collection full of power and contradictions, just like the painting “Snowstorm or Hannibal crossing the Alps” by the master of the XIXth century William Turner that inspired him.
© Tony Ward
Glamor and nothing but glamor. Right Sheaths, prom dresses, jump suits and mini dresses in chiffon and crepe silk, tulle, gazar, geometric lace, dupioni…Zuhair Murad is reinventing himself with sophistication.
© Zuhair Murad
Modern Haute Couture and contemporary look. Long slit dresses cover a leg like pants. On opulent silk organza coats intrudes a patchwork of blue mink and crystal chains. Voluminous prom dresses in duchess silk lined and covered with silicone are freely draped on the body..Glamor and sensuality.”Atelier Versace is authentic couture” says Donatella Versace, who paraded her models on a fur catwalk…
© Atelier Versace
The architect of fashion innovates by presenting his Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2014-2015 collection, through a 9 minutes film, entitled Escape, directed by Diane Sagnier and featuring the Spanish model Nieves Alvarez and actor Lespert in Paris. Stephane Rolland’s heroine is a woman of character, free, without borders and curious about everything. Shrouded in resin, fringed with ergonomic shapes carved in velvet or painted samurai tattoos in colored feathers, she remains mysterious and elusive… But more sexy and sensual than ever.
© Stéphane Rolland
The upholstered walls with 150,000 white orchids, help us forget the black and ominous clouds of the Parisian sky in July. This round room, built in the gardens of the Rodin museum, quickly becomes a journey back in time.
For its fall-winter 2014-2015 collection, Raf Simons is embarking on an exploration of the past combined with ideas drawn from the near future. Successive eras: basket dresses from the XVIIIth century adapt to the life of a woman of the XXIst century combinations of cosmonauts, long Edwardian coats with sinuous curves…Back to the Future. A Dior fashion show would not be one without the iconic Bar line which comes in cloak or cape-neck dress.
Inspired by painters, nature and the luminous work of Claude Monet. For fall/winter 2014/2015, Georges Hobeika painted a dreamy and graceful woman. On a canvas of shimmering organza bud crystals imprisoned in chiffon. A short dress is covered with flowers in purple tulle.
Short, with discreet sensuality, or long in chiffon emphasizing hips with swelling of tulle, dresses are the stars of these paintings. Net Elegance of the lines, poetic delicacy of hand embroidered flowers, the workshops expertise of the Lebanese designer is projected in front of the stage. From the flourishing garden of Georges Hobeika also hatch baby dresses, resembling the big ones.
© Georges Hobeika
Karl Lagerfeld gives us a new interpretation of haute couture, modern and visionary
© Chanel/Pictures by Anne CombazHaute Couture Chanel
Plastic lace, neoprene or cement, Karl Lagerfeld uses in his new Chanel collection for fall-winter 2014-2015, new and unexpected materials that blend with chiffon, tulle, tweed and organza, creating a silhouette of absolute modernity. The line is structured: shoulders with right angles, constrained size and rounded volumes created by cages on which the fabric rests. White and black are mixed with fire colors, red, rust, gold or cooler shades, sky and cement. In a contemporary style, neoprene dresses a very richly embroidered white evening simulating boleros and coats in sham.
© Chanel/Pictures by Anne CombazHaute Couture Chanel
Wearing “very chic flip flops”, models parade in little dresses in Marches a volume, shortened to the knees and worn with “cyclists in the French style.”
For the first time, the cement is embroidered, sewn, inlaid, pierced as a mesh, metamorphosed into plastron in martingale, in braid and even clothing, day or night.
© Chanel/Pictures by Anne Combaz
In a setting of columns and chandeliers in his “Palace of Lights”, Elie Saab delights us once again with his princess dresses. Embroidered with pearls, sequins and faceted crystals, they wrap the model in a succession of light ice blue, midnight blue and Nile water, or peony and crimson. The wedding dress, white, embroidered with silk thread, comes to close this dream of a winter night.
© Elie Saab
Ralph & Russo
Attention to detail, precision, light and talent. The new collection of the British House is inspired by the world of interiors of photographer Massimo Listri. Voluminous dresses in duchess satin and silk gauze contrast with chiffons and crepes of fluid silk.”Small hands”, with a delicate attention to detail, chip fabric like a sculptor shapes his marble; embroider the material with light. Eternal elegance.
© Ralph & Russo
Inspired by photographic works of the 50s by Richard Avedon and Irving Pen, graceful and imperial silhouettes express all the pomp of the couture signed Georges Chakra. Mistress of the ceremony, the cape is declined in plural forms: short, long, inverted back… in a set of transparency and graphic cuts.
Shimmering velvet, iridescent organza, embossed brocade, printed digital gazar, arabesque raffia, tulle dotted with flowers, fur streaked with glitter… The materials are mixed in a palette of colors ranging from garnet, purple, royal blue, sapphire, gold, silver and black sky.
© Georges Chakra
Maison Martin Margiela
From The Second Empire style damask dating from the XVIIIth century won at the auction, to the brocade dating from the XIXth century and parts of ancient coins mottled in antique shops, through the Japanese “Souvenir Bombers’ from the 50s, Maison Martin Margiela revives these vintage pieces by restoring, transforming and reinterpreting them while keeping their spirit. The collection “Artisanal” revisits a collective memory of the Haute Couture, with every piece of the 22 passages worked entirely by hand in the workshops of the House. The high wire!
Eccentric Haute Couture, bold Haute Couture. Marco Zanini wakes the beauty sleeping for 60 years. This second collection draws from the eclectic character of Elsa Schiaparelli: her humor, her prints and the strength of her lines.
White scarf tied in the hair and black sunglasses.The Valli woman is inspired by the Dolce Vita of the sixties and sweeps the gloom with stripes and floral bouquets.
© Giambattista Valli
Minimalist show at Viktor & Rolf with red silhouettes parading on the red carpet. Under the rain of July, Rad Hourani is the first to present a Unisex collection of Haute Couture away from conventions. The Turkish designer Dice Kayek imagines for her first Parisian couture collection structured monochrome silhouettes, inspired by her dreamt winter garden. The Syrian designer Rami Al Ali layers tropical flora with laser on lamé fabric. Russian Ulyana Sergeenko mixes leather skirt and mohair sweater with printed graphics.
© Dice Kayek © Victor & Rolf © Ulyana Sergeenko
Dice Kayek Victor & Rolf Ulyana Sergeenko
© Rami Al Ali © Rad Hourani
Rami Al Ali Rad Hourani
For his first show in Rome, the talented Rani Zakhem was inspired by different times in a woman’s life and how she transforms from dawn to night and from youth to maturity. A floral enchantment represented in bold effects of cuts and textures, enhanced by the refinement of colors and fabrics.
© Rani Zakhem
During Fashion Week, the Vips and celebrities are part of the show …The 2014/2015 fall-winter haute couture vintage attracted, among others: Charlize Theron and Sean Penn (the couple of the moment), Jennifer Lawrence, Emma Watson Rosamund Pike (pregnant with her second child with Robie Uniacke), Marion Cotillard, Kristen Stewart, Dakota Johnson (heroine of Fifty Shades of Grey, daughter of Melanie Griffith and Don Johnson, Jared Leto (seen at Chanel), Lilly Collins, Jennifer Lopez…
© Dior © Atelier VersaceRosamund Pike and Chiara Mastroianni at Dior Jennifer Lopez at Atelier Versace
© Georges Hobeika
Georges Hobeika and Maria Nadim
© Rani ZakhemLouise Doumit and Rani Zakhem
Lily Collins at Chanel