Fashion Moments Fall-Winter 2015/2016
Prestige issue 264-265, July-August 2015
Paris Fashion Week alone is a real marathon between formal and informal parades besides the presentations and selected other launches … Chosen moments…
It is at the Manege Celestine that Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the new artistic director of Hermes, presented her first collection. Faultless. Great coats in blue-black calf, striped overcoats in cashmere and double face skins, knit dress with funnel neck, padded leather and cashmere the blanket way … The world of riding, dear to the house, was well present.
Raf Simons, artistic director of Dior, develops the idea of the primitive and the pattern to talk about freedom and sensuality, creating a hyper-natural world for women. Masculine-feminine wardrobe, abstract animal prints, long coats in fox fur dyed half … Seen at the forefront, the actress Dakota Johnson from the movie 50 Shades of Grey.
Dakota Johnson at the Dior parade. © Prestige
Dream of a mysterious forest
At Elie Saab, conquering silhouettes with structured shoulders and cinched waist, advance in a mysterious forest. Gradually, volumes are growing … Lace and transparent floating panels release the legs and back. Grace and allure are the signature of the Lebanese designer.
Yeti Louis Vuitton
Polar reference at Louis Vuitton. Padded vanity case in transparent plexiglass, long sheepskin coat the polar bear way, tweed skirt with pockets embroidered in rhinestones glitter … For Nicolas Ghesquière, a collection «is a multi-dimensional journey, shaped by present and past experiences. Treasures that we bring of unknown lands or explorations in the privacy of the closet.»
© Louis Vuitton
Precious embroidery for evening vintage bags at Roger Vivier. Rich textures and excellent craftsmanship.
The Emirati designer Madiyah Al Sharqi concocted a colorful and cool winter collection with a predominance of lace.
At the Brasserie Gabrielle
Welcome to Brasserie Gabrielle, where models chatter around a breakfast (croissant and boiled eggs included), where dishes turn into bags, and the bag in back mesh bag. «This is an idealized vision of the Paris of today that I wanted to exaggerate to calm the French bashing side» explains Karl Lagerfeld. With «The French Collection»he reinvents the new French bourgeoisie in a modern spirit.
© Chanel Cara Delevingne and Kendall Jenner parading for Chanel.© Chanel
Maria Nadim at the brewery Gabrielle. © Prestige
Fringed blanket coats, Berber striped capes and vests curly sheep, cavalier boots, cuff gypsum cabochons … Alber Elbaz at Lanvin pays tribute to his country, Morocco.
The 50’s Revisited
Mixture of tiles, animal patterns, ultra-feminine shapes and colors … Miu Miu had a young collection full of pep with a comeback of the miniskirt.
Meeting between fashion and movies. For the third chapter of Prada The Iconoclasts, the renowned costume designer Milena Canonero reinterpreted the universe of the brand and the visual identity of the Faubourg Saint-Honoré store. «Drawing inspiration from my movie experience, photographic and pictorial, I wanted to reinterpret the collection through the four elements – water, fire, air and earth – creating imaginary situations that culminate in the fifth element: human love.»
Lighting effects and set design became the signature of Saint Laurent parades. Torn Pantyhose, thin tie, slim leather pants torn zipped, strapless leather suit … Hedi Slimane imagine a punk-rock collection, masculine-feminine, with a touch of fetishism.
© Saint Laurent
Back to the roots
Rabih Kayrouz paraded his models, where it all began … in his Parisian workshops. Barazik, lemonade, champagne and small moving speech of the designer to welcome the public. Collection marked by Rabih codes, Oriental, intimate, who wishes … and is desirable!
Elegant shapes, clean lines, the gypsy of Valentino is chic as usual. Last visit and it’s crowded … The music becomes more rythmic … Derek Zoolander then appears (Adam Sendler) and Hansel (Owen Wilson), hero of the movie Zoolander 2 in a face off on the catwalk … the public goes wild.