Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2016-2017

Prestige issue 279, October 2016

 

For this new season, designers have especially paid tribute to the workshops and the virtuous little hands that give haute couture all its glow.

Know-how, creativity and femininity. From Paris to Rome via Beirut, report on the latest haute couture collections.

 

 

Schiaparelli

 

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© Schiaparelli

 

 

Cosmopolitan fantasy inspired by the Cirque Collection of summer 1938. Acrobatic Haute Couture with a seductive accuracy. Brocade, silk lamé, velvet iridescent pan … The Schiaparelli jacket becomes architectural and graphic.

 

 

Dior

 

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© Dior/Photos: Sophie Carre

 

 

Back to the roots at Dior with a collection dedicated to exceptional know-how of small hands in haute couture. The tailor Bar is the main inspiration of Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux that reinterpret it in its original palette, a brightly contrasting black and white, which colors all of this collection.

 

 

Atelier Versace

 

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© Atelier Versace

 

Volume XXL, fluid drape, controlled asymmetry. Donatella Versace signs a collection of a fatal, delicate and assumed femininity…

 

 

Elie Saab

 

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© Elie Saab

 

The New York effervescence of the 50s infuses to the winter haute couture collection lightness and timelessness … refined know-how, lavish embroidery details, feathers and furs, vaporous volumes and silhouettes with rounded shoulders … But mini models are those who will encounter all the success.

 

 

Ralph & Russo

 

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© Ralph & Russo

 

 

Bud Cascades, jagged butterflies laser sheaths and metallic tulle beaded dragonflies … The collection presents a sylvan landscape emulating perfection and chaos of the enchanted realms of nature. The wood muse of the duo designers embodies femininity in motion.

 

 

Chanel

 

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© Chanel

 

Chanel honors its small hands, recreating, in every detail, the workshops of the rue Cambon under the glass roof of the Grand Palais … We discover a structured and graphic collection, sleek silhouette, armed with tweed jackets, peaks feathers and a palette of autumnal colors…

 

 

Valentino

 

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© Valentino

 

 

Victorian silhouettes in homage to William Shakespeare … For their last duet show for Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli explore the concept of «theatrum mundi». Measured and austere tone, dense colors, precious and nocturnal.

 

 

Georges Chakra

 

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© Georges Chakra

 

 

Woman on fire

Flames patterns … the new muses of the designer are intensely romantic … Incandescent feathers, sequins, crystal, beads, organza, velvet, tulle, gazar, lace, pleated, hand paintings … The cuts are graphic and sizes highlighted by black velvet surrounded by pink blush, hot pink, red or ruby…

 

 

Basil Soda

 

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© Basil Soda

 

 

Haute Couture collection reminding us of a Greek goddess, strong and fierce, charming and attractive. Bold colors, geometric cuts, structured volumes, printed crepe pleated shades accented tulle adorned with Cornelli embroidery and silk fringe, 3D accessories in gold to complete the look.

 

 

Georges Hobeika

 

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© Georges Hobeika

 

Metallic lace, silk shantung, organza embroidered with silk son, gazar … The House infuses in its winter collection subtle virtues. Fine fabrics, majestic robes, aerial lines.

 

 

Rami Al Ali

 

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© Rami Al Ali

 

Elegance, creativity and refined glamor … the collection illustrates the gathering of small details through ornaments and embroidery. Cinched waists, puffy skirts, bare shoulders, tulle, satin and chiffon meet lace, crystal mesh and gems … Burgundy, blue, lilac and green tones.

 

 

Tony Ward

 

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© Tony Ward

 

 

«Flight»…

Couture collection full of contrasts, inspired by an imperial and wild bird. Dresses adorned with natural feathers, birds and precious materials, bright colors, soft and rigid volumes, work of materials with intriguing blends.

 

 

Rani Zakhem

 

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© Rani Zakhem

 

Pomp of the last Empires, combining couture and embroidery.

Amethyst silk velvet and crystal, peridot and precious braces velvet dresses «black diamond» and sequins, tulle with rose gold hues, hand painted bouquets … Each model its precious touch.