Prestige July-August 2014
Timepieces by Maria Nadim
A wind of nostalgia breathes on this 24th edition of the Salon de la Haute Horlogerie, where sixteen of the most prestigious houses unveiled their new creations, giving the tone to watch trends of the year. A significant return to the sources for many, who breathe new life into crafts or revisit their classics, pushing the boundaries of luxury timepieces. Vortices, chronographs, dive watches, slimlines and pieces of art competed for technical and craft skills. All you need to remember of the SIHH 2014 release … as if you were there … from A to Z!
A as threatened Archipelago
For future generations … 180 years ago, the British naturalist Charles Darwin changed our vision of the world through his theory of evolution, mostly observed during his expedition to the Galapagos Islands. Today, the Charles Darwin Research Station, built in 1964 on the second largest island of the archipelago, hosts annually more than a hundred scientists, students, teachers and volunteers from around the world to study the native flora and fauna and preserve from destruction the Galapagos World Heritage islands. A “laboratory of evolution” threatened. The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” symbolizes since 2009 the IWC commitment in favor of the threatened archipelago. For the first time, this special edition features the manufacture of caliber 89365. With the Special Edition Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos”, limited to five hundred copies, the watch manufacturer in Schaffhausen celebrates the 50th anniversary of the station Charles Darwin Research. A portion of proceeds from the sale is paid to the non-profit organization to support its scientific activities.
Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” IWC. Mechanical chronograph movement, revolving glasses with external and internal mechanical SafeDive IWC system, date display, stop function second and minute, small seconds hand with stop function. Stainless steel case coated with rubber.
B as White Balloon
Not quite similar or quite different. Ballon de Cartier collection welcomes a new valuable watch, White Balloon, which appropriates the codes of now legendary Blue Balloon and invents a new face. Round case, dial flanked with mother of pearl, blue sword-shaped hands … Winks to the original aesthetic. But instead of sapphire cabochon crown, a diamond, solitaire, slipped at 4 hours … A watch that weaves the secrets of clocks and watches of the house, with its bracelet composed of five rows of bubbles paved or smooth. A jewel watch, feminine and delicate.
Cartier White Balloon. Case and bracelet in 18ct white gold rhodium, set with 9.35cts diamonds, crown set with a diamond of 0.20 ct.
B as Bienfacture (craftsmanship)
Attention to detail. Bienfacture: female name … but it’s mostly a part of the Swiss dialect. This word, typical of Romandie, does not exist in the French dictionary. The craftsmanship is above all the art of finishing, processing raw elements in bright gems … On the occasion of its tenth anniversary, Greubel Forsey makes a new craft challenge with Tourbillon 24 SecondsContemporain set: work immediately the epitome of the mineral kingdom, namely size baguette diamonds to develop the architecture of their timepieces. Thus, 272 stones totaling 9.71 carats come showcase oscillations of Tourbillon 24 seconds.
Tourbillon 24 Seconds Contemporain Set from Greubel Forsey. Movement with manual winding, vortex 24 seconds inclined at 25 °, indicating the power reserve, small seconds indicator ofvortex rotation in 24 seconds. White gold case set with 140 baguette-cut diamonds, upper plate of the movement in white gold set with 78 baguette-cut diamonds. Dark blue alligator strap with folding clasp in white gold set with 54 baguette-cut diamonds.
C as G sensor
An essential tool for racing. The Tourbillon RM 36-01 G sensorCompetition is the result of collaboration between Richard Mille and Sébastien Loeb, the most successful pilot in the history of the WRC, with on his record nine consecutive world titles and a new world record at Pikes Peak in 2013. Featuring the new G mobile sensor, this new model allows viewing by the pilot number of G accumulated during the different phases of race, such as acceleration, deceleration and lateral forces generated during cornering. Directly connected to the bezel and sapphire crystal, the sensor may indicate strengths up to 6 G. The scale indicates via a needle if sustained low G (green zone) or if they reach a critical threshold (zone red). This exceptional model, created in a limited edition of 30 pieces, will be worn by Sébastien Loeb during WTCC competitions and other sporting events in which he will participate.
RM 36-01 G sensor Competition Sébastien Loeb from Richard Mille. Vortex movement with Manual winding, with hours, minutes, rotating G sensor, power reserve indicator and function selector. Limited edition of 30 pieces in titanium and carbon nanotubes.
C as Conceptual
White, smooth and powerful. Not quite a Royal Oak, nor quite an Offshore, the pioneering Royal Oak Concept unveiled in 2002 celebrated 30 years of the legendary Royal Oak octagonal, the first steel luxury watch designed by Gérald Genta for Audemars Piguet. This year, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT adopts bezel, crown and pushers in white ceramic, forming a strong contrast with the middle titanium. The particularly innovative manufacture went a step further by integrating the white ceramic in the movement itself. In the new 2930 caliber, the dazzling effect of the hourglass bridge is underscored by the symmetry of the bridges of the tourbillon and GMT function.
Tourbillon Royal Oak Concept GMT from AudemarsPiguet. Vortex with GMT function and selection indicator, with manual winding. Titanium case, openwork dial, white strap.
D for Day & Night
When the stars play hide and seek. The Moon and the Sun at the center of the dials turn to indicate the time. Elegant and contrasted, the Rotonde of Cartier watch Day & Night with moon phases retrograde sequence time through the aesthetic rigor of a graphic split: the upper part of the dial is dedicated to the indication of the day, night and time, while the lower part focuses on the display of moon phases. The new Rendez-vousNight & Day of Jaeger-Le Coultre lets time grow delicately on a mother of pearl dial. The day / night display placed at 6 o’clock reveals a star-filled poetry, while golden powdery peas at the center punctuate the feminine grace of the piece.
Rendez-Vous Night & Day of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Case of steel or 18ct rose gold, mother of pearl dial, automatic movement, day / night indicator.
E like floral Bloom
The flowers in passion. Roses have marked the life of Yves Piaget and the history of his famous house, they were a subject of inspiration for his creations. His passion for these delicate flowers is rewarded in 1982, when the winner of the competition, created by Meilland house, the famous horticulturist, is called “Yves Piaget rose.” Yves Piaget rose is recognizable in all his eighty serrated petals “Pink Rose” and its intoxicating and incomparable fragrance. For the love of roses, and in tribute to the mesmerizing rose that sprinkles its history, Piaget was involved in the renovation project of the rose garden of the castle of Malmaison, a shared passion with Joséphine de Beauharnais, who made the acquisition of the castle in 1799. During more than 15 years Josephine will bring from worldwide, plants and roses. More than 200 exotic plants are grown in the greenhouse she built in 1805. And the rose garden at Malmaison brings together more than 250 varieties of old roses. Fromthis history was born Haute Joaillerie collection Piaget Rose Passion. 100 pieces of Haute Joaillerie and Crafts, including 75 jewels and 25 jewelry watches tell us the passions of Piaget and Josephine.
Piaget Rose Passion Necklace in rose gold, set with 695 brilliant-cut diamonds, central brilliant cut diamond and multicolored tourmaline pearls.
Piaget Rose Passion Ring set with rose gold with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds, a brilliant-cut diamond and 12 carved pink opal.
Piaget Rose Passion. White gold case set with 64 baguette-cut diamonds and 48 pink baguette cut sapphires, buckle set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds.
F as Fifth Element
Ode to Luxury watchmaking. For Roger Dubuis, the year 2014 will be placed under the collection Hommage, which represents the fifth element honored through a range of incredible mechanisms. Quintessence around which naturally gravitate four satellites of the house: the Warrior, the Player, the Venturer and Diva, as many universes that inspire respectively Excalibur collections, La Monegasque, Pulsion and Velvet. Offering a beautiful expression space for different watchmaking professions, each model of this fifth collection bears, literally as figuratively, the signature of Mr Roger Dubuis, the man who created the Tribute collection in 1995 and today remains even the “soul” of the Manufacture. This new collection features two new models, the «Hommage double tourbillon Volant guillochémain» and «Hommage Tourbillon Volant» Tribute to Mr Roger Dubuis, and a line of Tribute Automatic and a line of Chronograph Tribute.
«Hommage Double Tourbillon guilloché main de Roger Dubuis». Rose Gold Case, signature of Mr Roger Dubuis metalized on the background of crystal sapphire. Manual movement, Geneva Seal.
G comme Gauchère (left-handed)
Vintage charm and historical detail. Left-handed watches are an integral part of the history of Panerai. Men of commandos of the Italian Navy had to wear a wrist watch, essential to synchronize their actions and manage the time spent in immersion, but also a compass and depth gauge. Because some for convenience, wanted to wear the watch on the right wrist, the watch manufacturer Panerai of Florence created for them timepiece equipped with a winding crown on the left side. A historical detail that comes today to complete the collection of Luminor 1950 3 Days. Officine Panerai showcases indeed the left sided version, with winding crown guard and a protective mechanism at nine o’clock on the left side of the case.
Luminor 1950 left handed 3 Days-47 mn from Officine Panerai. Case in polished steel, black dial, hand winding movement.
H like twirling Hours
Mechanical choreography. At first glance, nothing, except perhaps the display mode for hours, that gives signs of horological wonders nestled in the heart of the RM 63-01. A simple press on the button housed in the center of the ring triggers a ballet in slow motion: the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, begins to move slowly in the opposite direction clockwise, while the needle of hours takes a different pace. The “fluttering hours” of 63-01 RM Dizzy Hands have the power to release its owner from banality, pleasing the eye at every moment by a new detail …
RM 63-01 Dizzy Hands of Richard Mille. Openwork automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, and gold rotor function Dizzy Hands.
I like Isochronous
Is carried out in equal time intervals. The pendulum of Galilee, “measuring time”, which marked a turning point in watchmaking by opening the doors of the modern era, comes again today by Officine Panerai and its new pendulum clock. This is a faithful reproduction of the instrument developed by Galileo to demonstrate the law of isochronism of small oscillations of the pendulum. Galileo’s discovery in the XVIIth century improves performance by replacing a clock error of several minutes per day for only a few seconds. The escape wheel designed by Tuscan scientist is considered the first free escape in history. The height of the pendulum clock is 35.6 cm, its width is 18.5 cm and depth of 11.1 cm: the same dimensions as those appearing on the original scheme and confirmed by some other reliable reconstructions.
Pendulum Clock Officine Panerai. Winding mechanical movement by key. Power reserve of 8 days, 1 barrel, 153 components. Single edition of 50 copies.
J as Jewels
Preciously feminine. Hypnotic graphics with Cartier and their Collection Bewitched Hour: abstract pattern, black and white spots, referring to the peeling of the panther for this bracelet with flexible sleeve or enigmatic presence of the feline, which has slipped in the heart of a bathtub dial. Audemars Piguet makes a fine jewelry piece drawing its charm from a combination of asymmetric and symmetric lines, fusion cleverly contrasted with the fluidity of Art Nouveau and the geometry of Art Deco architecture. The same inspiration is found in the new interpretation of the Ralph Lauren with 867 Diamond. With Vacheron Constantin, female watches are inspired by ornaments from the world of decorative arts of many cultures (Ottoman architecture, Indian manuscript, French lace and Chinese embroidery). Revealing four female pieces, born from the openwork art and a combination of crafts, the new collection «Métiers d’art Fabuleux Ornements» is a true invitation to travel. The stated elegance of the dazzling creations of Velvet by Roger Dubuis, forcefully reveals the passionate spirit of the Diva …
Velvet by Roger Dubuis. Watch set with 367 diamonds round and sticks, and two rubies cut as cushions.
K as Keepsake
Gentleman’s club. The pocket watch is one of the most stylish and refined accessories for men, because of its association with a time not so long ago when no gentleman would have considered wearing his watch on his wrist, until early XXth century, wristwatches were generally considered as a feminine accessory. It was not until the First World War that the port of the wristwatch became widespread among men. In the first decades of the XXth century, Orologeria Panerai in Florence is an ideal destination for anyone looking for a pocket watch. Officine Panerai revives this tradition through two special editions of pocket watches in gold, limited to only 50 copies each: Pocket Watch 3 Days Oro Rosso and Pocket Watch 3 DaysOro Bianco. These precious objects are animated by P.3001/10 caliber, entirely developed and produced in the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel.
Clifton 10139 Baume & Mercier. Automatic movement, small second and date.
M like Metropolis
Urban and modern. The Metro collection of Parmigiani Fleurier is a creation of masculine and feminine timepieces designed in the spirit of a city, for its inhabitants. The timepiece Métrographe for men or for women Metropolitan can not be described, but it lives and tells the time of day, on a wrist movement in the city. The subtlety of this collection is that the watch is asymmetric: left profile is classic with its two horns teardrop iconic, which is the first brand code. Its right profile comprises elongated horns coming extend to the crown.
Tonda Métrographe and Tonda Metropolitan from Parmigiani Fleurier. Steel watch, cream mint green dial.
M as Moonphase
From the Earth to the Moon. The dial side, the Richard Lange Perpetual “Terraluna” A. Lange & Söhne, dressed in a case of 45.5 mm in pink or white gold, features the regulator design, related to scientific watches with high precision. From the movement side, it has an orbital moon phase display, which for the first time in a wristwatch where the situation of the Moon relative to the Earth and the Sun is represented. The mechanism of moon phases of the watch Rotonde of Cartier Earth and Moon based on a complex and creative design that combines swirl, moon phases at the request and second time.
Richard Lange Perpetual “Terraluna” A. Lange &Söhne. Movement with manual winding. Display hours, minutes and seconds; perpetual calendar with large date, day of week, month and leap year; power reserve indicator; orbital moon phase display with day / night side
N like North and South
The two poles at honor. At Van Cleef & Arpels, the Midnight model Borealis Night, dedicated to the Northern Hemisphere is inspired primarily from Greek mythology, its creatures and deities, whileMidnight Southern Nightdevoted to the southern hemisphere, honors observations of scientists and explorers from the XVIth to the XVIIIth century. MontBlanc Expands Twin Star Moonphase with new automatic caliber 29.13 MB, designed for a new complication used only by the brand: an indication of moon phase, which illustrates the changing faces of our satellite as it appears in the Northern Hemisphere and in the southern hemisphere with a needle to the age of the moon in days. With 60-01 RM Flyback Regatta, Richard Mille presentsits first watch dedicated to the high seas, with its special rotating bezel, punctuated by four cardinal points and a graduated 360 ° with scale 24 hour drive.
60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph RM Richard Mille. Automatic movement with hours, minutes and seconds at 3 o’clock, big date, month, flyback chronograph with central seconds, minute counter and down counter at 9 o’clock, hour counter at 6 o’clock, UTC display and adjustable rotor geometry.
O as Outside the box
Challenging the finesse codes. To get there, it took three years of design, production, setting and finishing, to watchmakers, designers and manufacturers of boxes of Piaget Manufacture, to give life to the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the thinnest mechanical watch of the world with only 3.65 mm thickness. To achieve this, they had to think outside the box, pushing the limits of the art of watchmaking. The secret of this extreme finesse lies in the case design, which also serves as the background plate. Fusing caliber and case, it was machined to the same depth to accommodate the mechanical elements. A complex architecture, which has a reverse construction of armature movement.
Piaget Altiplano 38mm 900P. Mechanical watch with manual winding, the world’s thinnest watch.
O as Openwork
Air. The complexity of the openwork lies in the delicate balance between functionality and pierced elements … Playing a double three-dimensional effect coming out from both the architecture of 2260 SQ movement and its Gothic-inspired decor, the «Patrimony Traditionnelle tourbillon 14 jours» of Vacheron Constantin skeleton reveals impressive depth, highlighted by the components of carefully deconstructed lines. The openwork of«the Tank Louis Cartier watch Skeleton Sapphire» opens new creative horizons through innovation of movement whose deck is itself transparent and partially made of sapphire. With the Emperador Coussin Automatic Skeleton Tourbillon set Exceptional Piece, Piaget signs the first set baguette movement skeleton of history, in a slim-line composition displaying a flying tourbillon.
Tank of Louis Cartier, sapphire skeleton. Mechanical movement with manual winding, case in white gold.
P as Rose Petals
Taming the ephemeral. Cartier tackles a new job in watchmaking: the floral marquetery, which animates the dial of the watch Ballon Bleu of Cartier 42mm. Inlay or crimping, dozens of hours were necessary until the dial of this creation is born. A multitude of meticulous operations succeed: harvest flower petals and coloring, cutting each petal, affixed to a thin layer of wood with a marquetery saw. Thus transformed, the petals become plumage, the volume and texture contrast with the glow of onyx and emerald beak and eye.
Cartier Ballon Bleu, floral marquetry representing a parrot. White gold case set with 124 diamonds, dial with floral marquetry and onyx, emerald eye. Edition limited to 20 copies.
P as Planetarium
The race of the planets.«The Poetic Complication MidnightPlanetarium» of Van Cleef & Arpels reproduces in miniature the movement of six planets (Earth and Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn – visible from Earth with the naked eye) around the Sun and their position in a given time. Each planet moves in accordance with its real-time rotation: more than 29 years will be required for Saturn to complete turn of the dial, while Jupiter will almost put 12 years, March 687 days, the Earth 365 days, Venus 224 days and Mercury 88 days. A shooting star indicating the time, makes its race in 24 hours. Thanks to the rotating bezel, the watch owner selects the day of his choice by placing the red triangle on a graduated schedule. At that time, the Earth will be placed exactly below the star engraved on the sapphire crystal, as a sign of luck.
Poetic Complication Midnight Planetarium of Van Cleef & Arpels. Mechanical movement with automatic winding.
Q as Quantieme
Mastery of time. Cartier changes the functionality and appearance of perpetual calendar with the invention of the central display in its watch «Rotonde Astrocalendaire». The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month IWC perpetual calendar features a large digital display with date and month powered by the IWC 89801 movement with automatic winding system with doublepawl. MontBlanc offers affordable perpetual calendar with its «Meisterstuck Heritage Perpetual Calendar» available in red gold or steel. With the Clifton Retrograde Date, Baume & Mercier is demonstrating its desire to offer lovers of fine watchmaking, a timepiece reference visually out of the ordinary while providing a useful and accessible complication.
Meisterstuck heritage Perpetual calendar of Montblanc. Automatic movement with perpetual calendar and moon phases.
R as Railway Station
Encounter of two worlds. It is a link between two worlds that have evolved in a similar manner at the end of the XIXth century that Vacheron Constantin weaves with its new pieces «Métiersd’Art Mécaniques Ajourées» architecture and watches. This sculptural work borrows to large European flagship station of the golden age of the industrial revolution, their aerial construction with vaults and transparency, in order to transcend the art of openwork.
Mechanical Crafts Pierced by Vacheron Constantin. White gold case, dial ring with black enamel Grand opaque light blue or gray. Manually wound movement, engraved by hand.
R as Minute Repeater
The music of time. Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the «Master UltraThin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon», the eleventh installment of the Hybris Mechanica collection and first Grande Complication ultra-flat with a minute repeater, the thinnest in its class with a total thickness of only 7.9 mm. Ultra-thin Vacheron Constantin with Patrimony Contemporaine ultra-thin1731 caliber, minute repeater watch with manual winding of 8.09 mm finesse. Parmigiani Fleurier orchestrates a great date with a calendar minute repeater in the «Toric Résonance 3». Audemars Piguet, creator of the first wristwatch with minute repeater in 1892, continues a long tradition with the new Millenary Minute Repeater in rose gold: a manual-winding watch built in three dimensions in an oval case.
Millenary Minute Repeater of Audemars Piguet. Manual winding movement, small seconds, minute repeater, AP escapement, double spiral.
S as Steampunk
Retro futurism. Roger Dubuis embarked the visitors of SIHH on an incredible journey to the heart of a highly creative world full of mechanical prowess. Created for the launch of the new collection «Hommage», the stand offered an interpretation of an exhilarating steampunk cuckoo clock powered by a mechanical movement and a stunning kaleidoscope of playful elements, creative and educational. A perfect décor to celebrate the inventors who, over time, have continued to hone their craft to make this event and collection possible. In a spirit of humor and irony, Roger Dubuis replaced the cuckoo by the eagle embodying the stamp of Geneva so dear to the House. The art and the creative vision of Roger Dubuis occur in a tangle of wheels, sprockets and springs. Knock, ticking and chimes resonate in a world adorned with wood, metal and leather, which represents the watchmaking workshop, and reminds us that in the virtual world of today, we are all in search of authenticity.
T as Around the World
World time. The «Duomètre Unique Travel Time» by Jaeger-LeCoultre is the first time watch in the world to adjust the second time zone at the minute. The traveler can then tune the second time zone in all countries and on all continents irrespective of the time difference. With the new watch «Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici et Heure d’ailleurs», Van Cleef & Arpels offers an interpretation that is both sober and poetic of the trip with a double jumping hour and retrograde minute display. Greubel Forsey’s GMT, meanwhile, sports a globe performing a full rotation in 24 hours, time materializes in real time.
Royal Oak Offshore ChronographAudemarsPiguet.Automatic chronograph movement, the seconds hand at the center, 12-hour and30-minute counter, tachometer scale, stainless steel case.
W as Web
Free Soul. Natalie Portman, global partner of the brand since 2011, reveals the first watch designed and created with Richard Mille «Tourbillon RM 19-01 Natalie Portman». For this first collaboration, the American actress wanted to combine the notion of power with complex nuances expressed in the heart of RM 19-01 by a diamond checkerboard and interlaced lines to compose the image of the spider. Present in many myths and legends of most civilizations and continents, often linked with energy and feminine creativity, this insect predator fascinates with its strong symbolic power.
RM 19-01 Vortex Natalie Portman of Richard Mille. Vortex movement with manual winding, platinum set with diamonds, white gold spider and set with diamonds as an integral part of the movement. Edition limited to 20 copies.
X as XX
Feminine DNA. Know-how, mechanics and aesthetics. The woman of the XXIst century is equally interested in the design as well as the engine of these timepieces.
From leftto right:Ralph LaurenStirrupWatchSmallLinksteel, white mother of pearldialset with 12diamonds.Ralph LaurenStirrupSmall-Link polished steelwith white dialor mother of pearl, with or without diamondinstylesnowfall.
Y as Yumm
Greedy instants. A palette of chocolate brown coats the dials of these timepieces. In Saxonia ladies watch, A. Lange & Söhne focuses on the essentials. With thin needles and sticks for index in rhodium gold, coated with shiny pearl brown dial displays the hours and minutes and seconds on a window at 6 o’clock.
Saxonia from A. Lange & Söhne. Manually wound movement, display of hours and minutes, small seconds with stop seconds. White gold case set with 60 diamonds, brown dial, covered with mother of pearl.
Z as Zodiac
Precious talismans. In the line of lucky jewelry created by the House since its beginning, Van Cleef & Arpels dedicated since 1950 a jewelry collection for signs of the Zodiac. Today, Van Cleef & Arpels renew this tradition with an outstanding collection of twelve limited edition watches showing the signs of the Western Zodiac: Aries, Taurus, Gemini, Cancer, Leo, Virgo, Libra, Scorpio, Sagittarius, Capricorn, Aquarius and fish. Many expertises are combined in the watches «Lady ArpelsZodiac», to express the different signs and instill life and brilliance to the dials.
Lady Arpels Zodiac Aquarius Van Cleef & Arpels. Dial in white gold, diamonds, translucent enamel, mother of pearl and lapis lazuli.
Lady Arpels Zodiac Capricorn Van Cleef & Arpels. Dial in white gold, yellow gold, white and yellow diamonds, translucent enamel and mother of pearl.