Prestige issue 272, March 2016
Spring-Summer 2016
Spring is a symbol of renewal. Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016 invented a new aesthetic. Flat, sun, pleated is king, in all its forms … The silhouette is fluid, shoulders are bare, legs are shown. The creators also draw their inspiration from the Orient and its extremes. Byzantium, Japan, India … and in nature … again and again. Delicate flowers that bees and other insects (Chanel, Dior) will be happy to forage.
STEPHANE ROLLAND
© Stéphane Rolland
Intimate presentation in the salons of the French designer, with vintage tunes. The models parade, a number in hand, as it was still at the time of Mr. Dior and Jeanne Lanvin. The silhouette is graceful and flowing, pleated sculpts the body.
ELIE SAAB
© Elie Saab
Exploring spirit at Elie Saab who ventures into a new aesthetic inspired by India. Structure and lightness. Chiffon and georgette; asymmetry and drapery; lace, embroidery and beads … Successful adventure if we believe the public acclaim with each pass…
GEORGES CHAKRA
© Georges Chakra
For his Spring-Summer 2016 Couture Collection presented at the hotel 51 Iéna, as part of the Paris Fashion Week, Georges Chakra suggests a journey to another world, an enchanted femininity, freshness and fluidity … Moving Luxury, highly refined materials: abundance of tulle, joy of lace, bursts of organza, wispy brocade, crepe and lace sensuality…
The proportion of the silhouettes flirts with flying overlays and fine embroidery. Lightweight materials, smooth halos amid pastels: peach, apricot, sky, water green, yellow, purple, white and coral glitter flowers, yarrow skirts, short and floating dresses, siren sheaths structured by strapless on pleated dress … and a show all in bloom.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
© Christian Dior
It was one of the most awaited shows of the Couture Week in Paris. Dior without Raf Simons and without new artistic director … What’s the outcome? An amazing Haute Couture collection full of realism and modernity imagined by the duo, Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier, who has been replacing Raf Simons since his departure in October.
A collection that turns around luck and superstitions … symbols and charms are embroidered on clothing or hung on a necklace as lucks. Volumes are free, the «Bar» jackets are revisited, the shoulder is bare naked.
VALENTINO
© Valentino
Grace and delicacy.The artistic designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by Mariano Fortuny, artist, fashion designer and textile designer of Spanish origin from the early XXth century. Dreamy lightness, models parading barefoot on a bed of flower petals, trimmed with gold jewelry fine gold, with ancient influences, between harnesses, bracelets, jewelry snake head reminding us of the Eden…
Superimposed tunics, pleated velvet Delphos dresses, coats, kimonos, embroideries that overlap patchwork and folds … The shapes are fluid, aesthetics is light … breathtaking.
RALPH & RUSSO
© Ralph & Russo
Mild spring with the Australian duo Ralph & Russo. The collection is dreamlike and light, enhanced by ample crepe capes, bell sleeves and gazar clouds. Spring, sign of revival, brings a new aesthetic combining tradition and modernity.
SCHIAPARELLI
© Schiaparelli
Gala dinner or the pleasures of taste … The title of the collection inspires … a fashion feast with Wonderland atmosphere. Onions and shallots embroidery, Chinese teapots, lobster in sequins … Potato Brooches, cherries or crayfish … At Schiaparelli, humor is always on the menu.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
© Jean Paul Gaultier
For Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion is always a celebration. French designer revives the Palace years, a Parisian club very popular in the underground culture of the 80s.He pays homage to his late friend Edwidge Belmore, icon of the punk generation at the door of the Palace, and was inspired by his night companions: Loulou de la Falaise, Farida Khelfa, Eva Ionesco, Grace Jones, Leslie Winer … Festive Youth, free and uninhibited.
ATELIER VERSACE
© Atelier Versace
Donatella Versace remains true to herself and to the codes of the Italian house with a collection of powerful, dynamic and sensual femininity. The split dresses, as torn, hold on a wire … set with Swarovski. Parkas, bomber jackets, yellow or orange harness … When sportswear becomes haute Couture.
TONY WARD
© Tony Ward
Movement, volatility, delicate work … Tony Ward offers a Couture Collection with airy colors and moving silhouettes. Pastel blue Jacquards, gray, green and lilac, overlays, embroidery … Like oscillating waves of air streams; organza, cut into ruffles and hand embroidered with silk son, ends in vaporous graduation.
GEORGES HOBEIKA
© Georges Hobeika
Stylish and airy outfits, spring flowering in silk crepe, sable, lace and organza, honeycomb pattern carved lace panel or structured on the tulle, embroidery, crystal bouquets, egrets sequins, beads droplets, jets colors, pink tulle, chiffon green almond shades of purple, ice blue, shades of peach, apricot, tangerine and melon, all the know-how of the House.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
© Giambattista Valli
The 10th Haute Couture collection by Giambattista Valli, inspired by Paris and its elegant gardens, is a succession of creations both extravagant and poetic: silk ruffled crepe, delicate floral embroidery, pleated tulle ruffled… Shoulders and the legs are bare subtly.
RANI ZAKHEM
© Rani Zakhem
In love with lavish eras, Rani Zakhem presented in Rome his collection, «One more dance». Long sleeves, mermaid dresses in night silk or white pearlescent silk pearl, paisley in gold lace, deep draped neckline, jewel and crystal, capes and trains, powdery notes declined the White Nile green, pink, yellow, pale blue, black and gold … a touch of romance and majesty.
